Bodega Hacienda Monasterio
Ribera del Duero 2022
Reviews
The Wine Advocate 94/100
The 2022 Hacienda Monasterio is a blend of 86% Tinto Fino, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Malbec. They only got 170 liters of rain and suffered five heat waves—what happens in Ribera is accentuated at the Monasterio estate—but they were able to manage it quite well. Since 2018, they have been harvesting earlier, in early September, because they have managed to achieve ripeness a little earlier, and it shows in the wine, which has 14.5% alcohol on the label (perhaps a little lower in the real analysis, but they need to round up to half a degree on the labels). The skins were thick, so the vinification was softer to avoid too much extraction. They also did a longer aging in barrel; it's usually 15 to 17 months, depending on the lot, but this year, the average was 17 months and it helped. In contrast, they did a shorter élevage in 2023, because it was what the wine called for. The nose is harmonious and shows no heat or excess ripeness (or oak), and the palate is silky with surprisingly ripe and round tannins, escaping the excess grip I found in many 2022s in the zone.
I met again with Carlos del Río Jr. to taste the wines from Hacienda Monasterio, Montecastro and his personal family project. As I mentioned last time, he is slowly taking the reins of Hacienda Monasterio, both from his father and from his father-in-law (Peter Sisseck!), starting with the sales side.
They got rid of the Merlot (it works once every 10 years!) and replaced it with Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon and are experimenting with foudres and oak vats. They have 98 hectares of vines—83% Tempranillo and 17% Cabernet Sauvignon—on 12 different soils, all certified organic since 2015. The idea here is to control the ripeness and alcohol in the wines as the grapes achieve ripeness earlier and earlier with climate change. Output averages 270,000 bottles per year.
2022 was a warm and concentrated vintage, and they also did a longer élevage. 2020 was fresher but also finished warm, and the ripeness was very good. 2019 was a very complete and powerful year.
