Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson
Saint Romain Blanc 2023 Sous Le Chateau
Reviews
The Wine Advocate 93/100
The 2023 Saint-Romain Sous le Château has turned out beautifully, offering aromas of tangerine, pear, grapefruit zest and dried white flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, ample and layered, underpinned by racy acidity and chalky extract, it concludes with a long, saline finish. It comes from a sunny, south-facing site that the Buisson brothers typically harvest among the first. Saint-Romain's contemporary reference point, brothers Franck and Frédérick preside over this 20-hectare domaine, producing characterful, stylish wines in both colors. The Buisson family has been estate bottling since 1947 and farming organically since the late 1940s, forerunners in both respects. After a brief period of more conventional farming during the 1980s and 1990s, the estate has since reaffirmed its commitment to organic viticulture and now holds both organic (since 2008) and biodynamic (since 2018) certifications. Today, white grapes are sorted, crushed to extract from the skins and pressed pneumatically for two and a half hours before being barreled down with minimal settling. The wines then spend two winters on the lees: during the first 12 months, about one-third matures in concrete eggs, one-third in 350- and 228-liter barrels and one-third in 12-hectoliter oak foudres, followed by four to six months in concrete tanks, resulting in an incisive, gently reductive style. Reds see judicious extraction, with some 25% to 60% whole bunches contributing perfume and sapidity. They mature for their first year in 228-liter barrels before being transferred to concrete tanks for an additional four to six months. All of this is performed with comparatively low-sulfur winemaking; in most cuvées, sulfites are not added until bottling. After a series of sunny vintages, where Saint-Romain's altitude helped to preserve freshness, their success in the cooler 2021 growing season proved that good farming and attentive winemaking deliver results, irrespective of the conditions. The high quality of the bottled 2023 vintage further attests to this: the wines have largely retained vibrancy and aromatic freshness, despite their density and slightly higher degrees of alcohol. The range of lieu-dit Saint-Romain bottlings is the focus at this address, typically attaining its apogee with their Sous la Velle and Sous Château bottlings, but the domaine also produces small cuvées from Meursault, Volnay, Corton and Corton-Charlemagne.
Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson
Bourgogne Côte de Beaune / Frankrijk
Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson is een familiebedrijf gevestigd in het charmante dorpje Saint-Romain, in de Côte de Beaune. Al sinds de 12e eeuw is de familie Buisson verbonden met de wijnbouw, en vandaag de dag wordt het domein geleid door de achtste generatie: Franck en Frédérick Buisson. Met respect voor traditie en een vooruitstrevende visie produceert het domein biodynamische wijnen van uitzonderlijke kwaliteit. De wijngaarden beslaan 19 hectare, verspreid over Saint-Romain en andere gerenommeerde appellations zoals Meursault en Corton-Charlemagne. De focus ligt op terroirexpressie, ondersteund door handmatige oogst, minimale interventie in de kelder en rijping in zorgvuldig geselecteerd eikenhout. De wijnen van Henri & Gilles Buisson staan bekend om hun zuiverheid, finesse en complexiteit. Elke fles weerspiegelt de unieke kenmerken van dit deel van Bourgogne en het vakmanschap van de familie Buisson.
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