Moric
Tokaj H 2023 Furmint
Reviews
The Wine Advocate 94/100
he 2023 Tokaj Furmint H is from the southeast-facing Haznos grand cru in Tállya at 200 to 260 meters above sea level. It is intense on the concentrated and aromatic nose that is pure, fresh and mineral as well as slightly floral the background. It intertwines ripe but elegant white and yellow (stone) fruit aromas with refreshing saline or stony as well as creamy sur lie notes, whereas the saffron, orange blossom and curry notes from the barrel sample I had half a year earlier are muted at this stage. Blended with 10% of Hárslevelű and partly aged in a new 500-liter barrel from Franz Stockinger, this is a dense, round and fleshy, quite fruit-intense yet also fine, elegant and persistently saline cuvée with texture, fine tannins and still a certain creaminess, richness and power on the finish. This generous and mouthfilling yet not alcoholic Tokaj grand cru is remarkably complex yet still dominated by its winemaking. It should benefit from further bottle age to better integrate the textural ingredients added from the new barrel. It was bottled slightly filtered in November 2024 with 13% stated alcohol and closed with a technical cork. Tasted in March 2025.
The dry Tokaj wines from Moric are still very young and need some time to develop their class. They are produced by Roland Velich from Burgenland with his Hungarian friend and colleague Gergö Filep, with whom he has been associated for several years through Velich's Hidden Treasures Project No. 1. Grapes for the three pure Furmints are selected from historic plots in the old Tokaj amphitheater. The pH level of the volcanic soils is so low (at 3.0) that even after the obligatory malolactic fermentation, the acidity is still seven grams per liter.
Görbe—marked with a "G" on the label—is a south-facing site that rises from 150 to 260 meters. "T" stands for "Türóska" and is one of its sub-vineyards in the lower part of the cru, which slopes slightly to the west and is very steep, which is why the soil is quite poor, and the wine, despite 80-year-old vines, is rather lean and needs to develop its complexity through bottle aging. The "H" (stands for "Haznos") comes from a southeast-facing vineyard that rises from 200 to 260 meters. It was partly aged in new 500-liter tonneaux by Franz Stockinger and will need at least a while to integrate better. The fourth wine is a terrific, light, bright and fresh 2023 blend of Furmint and Hárslevelu. The wines were racked in the spring of 2024 and remained on the fine lees until November, when they were lightly filtered and bottled. Velich presented his Tokay quartet at ProWein in Düsseldorf this year.
Reviews
Weingut Moric
Burgenland / Oostenrijk
Weingut Moric, onder leiding van Roland Velich in St. Georgen (Burgenland), verwierf sinds 2001 internationale faam als specialist in Blaufränkisch. Velich focust op oude stokken (soms 80–110 jaar) op steile kalk- en leembodems, en hanteert een koel-klimaatstijl die doet denken aan Bourgogne en de noordelijke Rhône. Zijn minimalistische aanpak – biologisch-dynamische wijnbouw, spontane gisting, lange maceratie en rijping in grote gebruikte houten vaten – laat het terroir van Neckenmarkt en Lutzmannsburg glashelder doorklinken. De single-vineyard wijnen behoren tot de top van Oostenrijk en behalen regelmatig scores boven de 95 punten. In 2023 werd Velich door Falstaff uitgeroepen tot Winemaker of the Year. Zijn wijnen worden geroemd om hun elegantie, mineraliteit, complexiteit en perfecte balans. Moric geldt als hét bewijs dat Blaufränkisch zich kan meten met 's werelds grootste rode wijnen.
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